Place two vintage Speedmasters side by side and they appear identical. But if you squint and look closely at the edge of the dial, you will discover a subtle 'kink' on the older models. This is the infamous Step Dial. In the world of the early Moonwatch (before 1974), this relief is the holy grail. It gives the dial a depth that the later 'flat dials' simply lack.
What exactly is a Step Dial?
The term refers to the physical indentation at the edge of the dial, precisely where the minute track begins. The dial slopes downwards like a small staircase there. This was not a deliberate design choice, but a technical remnant from the time when dials were still milled in a specific way.
From around 1974, Omega switched to a more efficient manufacturing process with flat dials. Although this was 'more perfect', the Speedmaster lost some of its visual 3D effect in the process. For the purist, a flat dial sometimes feels a bit more sterile compared to the layering of a vintage example from the early 1970s.
What the connoisseur pays attention to
At Segundor, we thoroughly unravel these kinds of details. After all, it is not just about the looks, but about originality:
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The depth of the sub-dials: On an original Step Dial, the registers are often recessed more sharply.
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The Omega logo: Early Step Dials often feature an applied metal logo instead of a printed version.
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The match with the movement: A Step Dial belongs to the legendary Caliber 321 or the early Caliber 861.
|
Period |
Reference |
Dial Feature |
Status in 2026 |
|
Before 1968 |
105,012 / 145,012 |
Step Dial + Applied Logo |
The absolute top (Cal. 321) |
|
1968 - 1974 |
145,022 |
Step Dial + Printed Logo |
The most sought-after early 861 |
|
After 1974 |
145.022 (later) |
Flat Dial |
Stable, but less rare |
Why originality is all-determining in 2026
The danger with vintage Speedmasters lies in the so-called 'service parts'. A watch from 1971 ought to have a Step Dial. Does it have a later flat dial? Then the collector's value plummets immediately by thousands of euros. Nothing is more painful than a beautiful vintage case with a modern dial that fits technically, but completely misses the mark historically.
Do you have your eye on a Speedmaster but are unsure if the dial matches the year of manufacture? We would be happy to take a look at the macro details with you.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
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How do I recognize it immediately? Look diagonally along the record at the hour bars; do you see a distinct depression? That is the step.
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Are all Step Dials made of metal? No, the very latest versions already have a printed logo, but still the physical kink.
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Is it more expensive to maintain? No, but be extremely careful: cleaning can damage the fragile patina.
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What if my 1972 model doesn't have a footpeg? Then chances are the plate was replaced during a service at some point.
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Will these models continue to rise? Yes, scarcity of untouched dials will be the biggest price driver in 2026.