In the world of vintage watches, there is one word that makes the heartbeat of both the purist and the investor quicken: unpolished . While a gleaming, like-new watch seems like the Holy Grail to the layman, the connoisseur in 2026 knows better. A scratch here or a dent there? No problem. But has the case been touched with a polishing disc to make it "neat again"? Then the story, and the price, changes immediately.
The market has become unforgiving: authenticity trumps aesthetics. We explain why that 'unpolished' condition is one of the most important factors for the value of your next vintage acquisition.
What do we really mean by 'unpolished'?
An unpolished watch is a piece that has never been polished since the day of its first sale. The razor-sharp lines of the case (the lugs ) and the transitions between brushed and polished surfaces are still exactly as they left the factory decades ago.
Many watches we see today have been "refreshed" during a service at the manufacturer. This involves removing a microscopic layer of metal to eliminate scratches. The result is a watch that shines like a mirror, but has lost its original shape and proportions. And in 2026, that is an expensive mistake.
Why both the purist and the investor will love it
For an investor, everything revolves around originality and integrity. A watch case can be compared to a sculpture: once you remove material from it, you can never put it back.
-
Sharpness of the lugs: On an unpolished Rolex or Omega, the corners of the lugs are razor-sharp. After a few polishing sessions, these corners become 'soft' and rounded. The watch loses its powerful appearance.
-
Preservation of the finish: The factory grinding ( brushing ) has a specific direction and depth. A machine in a local workshop can almost never perfectly replicate this without an expert noticing.
-
The hunt for scarcity: Let's be honest: most watches in the '90s or '00s were dutifully polished at every service. A specimen that escaped that fate has become a rarity. And rarity is the engine behind profitability.
The hard facts: How much does a polishing job cost you?
Let's not beat around the bush: the price difference in the current market is significant. Although the exact value depends on many factors, in 2026 you will easily pay a premium for a vintage Rolex Submariner (such as a reference 5513) in honest, unpolished condition that can range from 20% to as much as 40% compared to a piece that has been treated too enthusiastically.
For the purist, a watch with visible scratches but with the full, original lugs is therefore far more desirable than a "smoothly" polished watch where the holes for the push-pins almost come through the edge of the case simply because too much steel has been ground away.
At Segundor, we pay extra close attention to these details. When purchasing and selecting our collection, we critically examine the lines and case thickness so that we can offer you the best selection of pre-owned watches.
How do you recognize those original lines?
This is where craftsmanship comes into play. Pay attention to the following points with your next purchase:
-
The 'bevels': The slanted, polished edges on the corners of the case. Are they wide, sharp, and uniform?
-
The thickness: Compare the four cabinet legs. Are they all the same thickness, or has one been ground painfully thinner to remove a deep scratch?
-
The satin finish: Does the brushing on the lugs run perfectly straight towards the edge, or do you see faint, curved lines from a polishing disc?
Conclusion: Buy the cabinet, not the shine
At Segundor, we always advise investors: don't be afraid of a scratch. A scratch tells a story, but an over-polished case is an irreversible mistake. In a market that increasingly values authenticity, the unpolished state is the ultimate insurance for your investment. An unpolished watch may not be "perfect," but it is real. And in 2026, that is exactly where the value lies.